Pierce Brothers Coffee Roasters™ article in the September 2007 issue of the Boston Globe
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On the banks of the Connecticut, a hub of culture

VILLAGE VIBE
It's easy to linger in tiny Turners Falls.  Check out the scene at explorenewengland.com

   Perhaps the best way to explain -- and visit -- Turners Falls is chronologically.  After you turn from Route 2 and head over the bridge, ancient layered banks of the Connecticut come into view.  Some 200 million years ago, this was the muddy bottom of a rift in the supercontinent Pangea.  Dinosaurs roamed, and their tracks, along with raindrops, fish imprints, and worm burrows were preserved as the mud sank and other material piled on top.  Unless you know what to look for, it can be hard to spot a dinosaur print at the riverbank, but stop in at the Great Falls Discovery Center at the entrance to the village.
   The state-owned center, which is partnered with the Sivio O. Conte National Fish and Wildlife Refuge, has enormous amounts of information about the Connecticut watershed.  Better yet, it has people such as Winters, who are happy to show off the geological wonders scattered throughout the village and museum.
   Once you view to fossilized prints, stand at the foot of the bridge and look at the dam that sits atop a waterfall.  The area, known as Peskeompsskut, or "place of the split rock," was one of the oldest continuously settled areas in North America and served as a meeting and trading place for Native American tribes all over New England.  In 1676, Captain William Turner,


After heading over the bridge, ancient layered banks of the Connecticut come into view.

If you go ...

How to get there
Turners Falls is about 90 miles from Boston.  Take Route 2 west until stoplight in Gill.  Turn left and go over bridge.
Where to eat
Avenue A Cafe
111 Avenue A
413-834-1207
avenueacafe.com
Wonderful breakfast sandwiches, lunch, and locally roasted coffee.
Monday-Thursday 6 a.m.-5 p.m., till 8 Friday, Saturday 7-8, Sunday 8-3.


for whom the village is named, led a group of 150 men and boys who invaded the unguarded village and killed hundreds of women, children, and elders by shooting them or forcing them into the river where they drowned,   according to Linda Hickman, who has written a walking tour of downtown.  Turner was killed retreating.  In 2004, selectmen in Montague held a reconciliation, acknowledging the massacre and signaling what they hope will be better relations with Native
Americans.  Now, turn around and look down Avenue A -- the village's wide main road -- and imagine what industrialist Colonel Alvah Crocker envisioned in the 1860s: another Holyoke or Lowell filled with humming mills and thousands of workers.  By the early 1900s, cotton, cutlery, and paper mills lined a canal off the river that bypassed the powerful falls.  The village bustled with a grand hotel and the Colle Opera House, which seated 1,000.  But by the 1940's like so many other New England mill towns, the factories began closing.  Turners falls was preserved, somewhat raggedly in time.
   Today, it takes only about 10 minutes to walk the planned village, from First to Seventh streets.  The downtown has been designated a National Historic District for its 19th century architecture, and you'll find stories about the village from the people you meet.  In the past five years, the Crocker Bank Building, the opera house, and a historic row house were renovated through public and private efforts totaling close to $10 million, according to Frank Abbondanzio, Montague town administrator.
   The Hallmark Museum of Contemporary Photography, showcasing professional photographs and the personal collection of founder George J. Rosa III, is on the first floor of the opera house.  The museum, which opened last year, is expanding into the Crocker building and that new addition should be open early next year.  Next door, check out the Shea Theater, the cultural nerve center of the village, and dance are performed and classes taught.


Pierce Brothers Coffee Roasters™
76 Hope Street
Greenfield, MA 01301
toll free 877-24-COFFE

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